Crazy Anchor Setup at Rock Land (Cabrillo)

Anchors - What not to do: I was out at Rock Land (Cabrillo) a few weeks ago and ran across this crazy anchor setup. This is a text book example of what not to do when building an anchor from 2 bolts. When building any anchor you're looking to create a SERENE anchor. SERENE is an acronym that stands for:

S - Strong (or Solid) - The stronger the better.

E - Equalized - Anchors should be constructed so that each component of the anchor carries an equal amount of the load.
   
R - Redundant - Anchors should consist of multiple components in case one or more components fail

E - Efficient - Anchors should be as simple and timely as possible without giving up any of the other SERENE qualities.

NE - No Extension - Anchors should be built so that if one or more of the components fail the remaining components won't be shock loaded.

Seriously, I did not make this anchor just to use as an example. This guy was top roping his kids on it and telling me about all the climbs he'd done in Yosemite. Guess his partner built all the anchors.

Description: 1" tubular webbing (in a loop with water knot) attached to both bolts with lockers. Typically a good start. Then he clipped 2 quick draws to it (reversed the gates), then added a loop of 6mm cord (with double fisherman's knot), then backed that up with another loop of webbing. And finally, he finished it off with a single locker (gate down) that was set back from the edge about 18". Given the way he set it up, you'd think he ran out of webbing and lockers but he actually more of both with him.

Analysis: The most obvious problem is the lack of redundancy where the quick draws are clipped to the black webbing. The draws are clipped on top of the webbing. No sliding X and no knot. If the webbing failed or either bolt failed (which is rare but does happen), you'd lose the whole thing. The second major problem is the way the master point was set up. It's too far back from the edge (creating wear, rope drag & knocking off little rocks) and it's only got 1 locking carabiner. The carabiner is certainly strong enough but I've seen plenty of lockers that have come unlocked while people are top roping. What happens is the gate often rolls itself open with all the movement you get when top roping. I don't really like the dual quick draws and the 6mm cord isn't perfectly equalized but those things are minor compared to the lack of redundancy and the master point set up.


Solution: If all you had was this to work with, what would you do? Here are a couple ideas I had.

Option #1 - Go Somewhere Else: First of all, if I didn't have the right amount of slings and gear, I probably would have set up a different climb. No reason to risk your life simply because you don't have the right stuff. Go set something else up.
Option #2 - Extend Slings & Master Point: I would probably untie the webbing (if I could get the knots out) and extend it in a single line (Fig. 8 on both ends) then bring the 2 ends together in a redundant master point. If needed, you could add in the loop of 6mm cord to further extend the master point. I would probably replace the locking 'biners on the bolts with one of the non-lockers from the quick draw. Then I would add that locker to the master point so I would have 2 lockers at the master point.

Option #3 - Link Corded Material Together: You might be able to tie all the corded material (the 2 loops of webbing & the 6mm cord) together to create a single cordellete/webolette. Then tie all this together with a redundant master point.

Anchor Installment #2 - Trad

This installment depicts a simple three point traditional (or trad) anchor.


Keep in mind, that the goal for all anchors is "SERENE".

SERENE

• S - Strong (or Solid) - The stronger the better
• E - Equalized - Anchors should be constructed so that each component of the anchor carries an equal amount of the load
• R - Redundant - Anchors should consist of multiple components in case one or more components fail
• E - Efficient - Anchors should be as simple and timely as possible without giving up any of the other SERENE qualities
• NE - No Extension - Anchors should be built so that if one or more of the components fail the remaining components won't be shock loaded 

Solid, Equalized, Redundant, Efficient, and No Extension. Above all else, anchors must be Solid. Complete anchor failure often means death to you, your partner or both. Get proper training and practice anchors on the ground before you go out and try them in a climbing setting.

Tools Needed: A trad rack, non-locking 'biners, 22' cordellete, & a few locking 'biners.


Learning to Place Pro: Before you begin crafting trad anchors, you'll need to learn how to properly place nuts and cams. Next time you can't find a climbing partner (or it's too wet to climb), go out to the rock and build a bunch of anchors a few feet from the ground. To start, take out your rack and see if you can place each and every piece you own in some sort of placement. Test each placement by connecting a sling to it and bouncing on it. CAUTION! - be sure you're only a few inches from the ground when you "bounce test". Resist the urge to look directly at the placement. Sometimes they pop right out and smack you in the face. Look for placements that have natural constrictions so the nut or cam can't wiggle out. With cams, be extra careful to place them so they can't "walk" forward. If they walk forward they can "tip out" and fail.

Pay attention to the angle of the cam lobes. The angle should be less than 90 degrees.

This cam has "walked" forward and is beginning to "tip out". If it continues to move, it will fail.

This cam has completely tipped out and would fail with only a minor amount of force.

Be careful about over-camming as well. The cam below is "over cammed". It won't work as well and could be difficult or impossible to remove.

Step 1 - Place Your Cams: An anchor should consist of three properly placed cams. In general, big cams are better if you have them. If you had a solid nut and the anchor would not be subjected to an upward pull, then 2 solid cams and a nut would be OK.

A couple of well placed cams.

Place all 3 cams and orient them in the anticipated direction of pull.

Clip your 22' of 8 mm cordellete into all 3 cams.

Pull down the cordellete & tie an overhand or Figure 8 knot in the end.

If you don't have a cordellete, it is possible to equalize cams using a single, shoulder length sling. Simply tie an overhand knot in the middle of the sling then clip a carabiner though both loops. Tie the knot loosely at first then even it up, equalize it, and tighten it. 

Throw in one more cam, then connect it with a double length sling.

If possible, spread your cams out into different rock features. This helps equalize the load in the event the rock is weak (for example in sandstone). Be sure to keep the angle less than 90 degrees to minimize the load on each cam.

The best way to learn how to build anchors is to take a class. Please visit Central Coast Climbing for more information.

A Full Day of Customized Instruction

I received an e-mail from Darrin on Saturday morning that he was interested in getting out for a full day of climbing. By Saturday night we worked out a tentative agenda and by Sunday morning we were out climbing. The biggest challenge was finding him a pair of size 12.5 shoes! Fortunately, I have a few friends with BIG feet and managed to get him a pair.

We met at Darrin at 8am at the top of Highland. After doing a bit of paperwork and a quick gear check, we were headed up to the crag by 8:30 am. We decided to head up to Garden Wall to try a few easy climbs in the sun. I set up a Top Rope and Darrin climbed Madison Square Garden (5.7-ish), Look Ma No Hands (5.6-ish), Woofs of a Wandering St. Bernard (5.8), and Doggie Style (5.9). Darrin had a "minor slip" on the 5.9 friction move (I have too!) but cruised up it in style. I'm thinking we better get him on some harder climbs! 

After a quick snack and water break, Darrin asked for a "short course" in anchor building. We plugged in a few cams on the ground and set up a 3 point trad anchor.

 

Darrin using a cordellete to tie the 3 cams together into a "SERENE" anchor (Solid, Equalized, Redundant, Equalized, No-Extension,& Efficient)

Practicing setting up a redundant anchor using a tree. Wrapped around 2X and tied into a Figure 8 knot so it's also SERENE.

After our mini-anchor class, we headed over to Cracked Wall and set up Mouse Maze (5.9). Bryan Carroll assisted with Top Roping. 

All chalked up with "white courage" and ready to rock!

Darrin easily cruising the opening 5.7 moves. 

Crossing over the ramp for Dirty Rat's Crack and getting ready for the first (5.8+) mantle move. 

Piece of cake. 

Cruising over the 5.9 roof move. 

After a quick lunch break, we headed up to "Hallucinogen Wall" above Cracked Wall. Darrin wanted to try some "mock leading" and learn how to rappel. 

Darrin "mock leading" (he's on top rope while also trailing a lead rope). Darrin easily cruised through the 5.7/5.8 opening moves of J-K Flashback.

The finish is a bit dirty but still fun.

Still smiling so it must be good!

After climbing J-K Flashback, we set Darrin up on for a rappel, protected by a top rope belay. That went so smooth that Darrin wanted to do some more! Instead of walking down (my original plan), we set up a 180' rap from the top of Knight Moves, past Mouse Maze all the way down to the base of Cracked Wall. Darrin's rappin' on the blue rope while being belayed on the white rope.

Everyone had a great time & we were back to the car by 4pm. 

If you're interested in taking a class or creating a similar adventures, check out Central Coast Climbing or send me an e-mail. 

Thanks for checking us out!

John

Anchor Installment #1 - Trees

This installment depicts a variety of ways to anchor off a tree.


Keep in mind, that the goal for all anchors is "SERENE".

SERENE

• S - Strong (or Solid) - The stronger the better
• E - Equalized - Anchors should be constructed so that each component of the anchor carries an equal amount of the load
• R - Redundant - Anchors should consist of multiple components in case one or more components fail
• E - Efficient - Anchors should be as simple and timely as possible without giving up any of the other SERENE qualities
• NE - No Extension - Anchors should be built so that if one or more of the components fail the remaining components won't be shock loaded 

Solid, Equalized, Redundant, Efficient, and No Extension. Above all else, anchors must be Solid. Complete anchor failure often means death to you, your partner or both. Get proper training and practice anchors on the ground before you go out and try them in a climbing setting.

To anchor off a tree, there are a few rules of thumb you might want to keep in mind. These include (1) make sure the tree is alive, (2) keep the anchor as low as possible, (3) be sure it's at least as large as your thigh, and (4) be sure it's firmly rooted in dirt (not 4" of dirt on top of solid rock!). Before you commit yourself and your partner/s to a tree be sure to push on it and make sure it doesn't move or break. Be careful not to fall over the edge if it gives way while you're pushing it! Also, check for sap and any sharp rocks that might be near the tree. You can use an old piece of carpet (or your partners favorite sweatshirt) to protect the rope, slings or tree.

Note - if you're Top Roping off a tree anchor, add another carabiner (preferably a locker) at the master point. These pics only show 1 for clarity. Also, when tying in with a clove hitch, be sure to orient the "load strand" toward the back of the 'biner for maximum strength. And don't forget to lock the 'biner and tighten the clove hitch before you lean into it.

Tools needed: A couple of locking 'biners, slings, and a rope.

Option #1 - Double Length Sling: Wrap a double length sling around the tree and close it with a locker. This is OK. It's Strong (assuming it meets the "rules of thumb" above), it's Efficient, it's Equalized but it's NOT redundant. I would add a 2nd double length sling if I had one. You can also girth hitch two single length slings together. 

Option #2 - Single Length Sling: I guess this would work in a pinch if that's all you had. But it's bad for all kinds of reasons. It cross loads the 'biner, it's high on the tree (because it was too short to go around the base), and it's not redundant. Better add another sling.

Close up showing the 3-way cross loading of the 'biner. This dramatically reduces the strength of the 'biner. If you forgot to lock the gate, the 'biner could blow apart in a hard fall. Not good.

Option #3 - Add a 2nd Single Length Sling: Again, this would probably work in a pinch but it's still got some serious issues. It's not redundant and it has a "pulley effect" the way it's threaded through the 'biner. The pulley effect puts unnecessary force on the anchor.

Option #4 - 2 Single Length Slings Girth Hitched: These 2 slings are girth hitched together. Much better but still not redundant and the slings put a bit of cross loading on the 'biner.

Option #5 - 2 Slings, Crossed Over: To remove the cross loading by the slings, simply cross over the slings (like you were tying your shoes). Still not redundant but much better. If you had enough slack in the end of the slings you could tie them in an overhand knot and make them redundant.

Option #6 -Open Sling or Cordellete: If you have 1" tubular webbing or a cordellete, you can simply open it up and tie it around the tree. Use a water knot on the webbing and an overhand knot in the Cordellete. I recommend 8 millimeter Cord or 1" tubular webbing for this purpose. It's rated at over 3,000 lbs. Note - Don't use 1/2" webbing. It's only rated for 1,000 lbs. - which sound like a lot but a top rope fall could easily generate 1,000 lbs. of force. This setup is good but still not redundant. If you had a couple more slings, you could add them both.

Option #7 - Doubled Cordellete: Finally some redundancy! This meets all the SERENE requirements and rules of thumb. It's quick and simple. Just wrap the Cordellete (or 1" tubular webbing) around the tree twice and tie an overhand knot or Figure 8 knot in the end. If any single line were cut, the whole thing would hold together.

Option #8 - Rope: Take a BIG bight of rope, wrap it around the tree and tie it into a bowline. Don't know how to tie a bowline? Better learn before you climb in an area that requires tree or rock anchors. Practice it in your backyard and have the neighbor kids pull test it before you head out to the rocks.

Close up of the bowline knot. Note - this is turned around 180 degrees from the pic above (sorry for the confusion!). This setup would be even better if it was tightened and had a stopper knot tied behind the loose end. This setup is efficient but uses a LOT of rope. To get a redundant master point (aka power point) in the rope, simply tie an overhand or Figure 8 knot in both ends of the rope between you and the bowline knot.

Option #9 - Tree Wrap: So what do you do if it's late, you're tired and can't remember how to tie a bowline in the dark (much less remember your own name)? Just walk around the tree, tie a Figure 8 knot in the end of the rope and clip it back into your belay loop or harness. I know what you're thinking, "But it's NOT redundant!" Well it doesn't need to be redundant, it's ROPE! The rope can literally hold you, your partner AND your truck without much trouble. If you have enough rope, you can add a Master Point by bringing both ends together between you and the tree and tying a Figure 8 or overhand knot. Assuming you chose this scenario because you can barely remember your name (or were nearly out of rope) you can also belay directly off your harness. Often times, simple is best.

Stay safe and have fun!

John

Anchor Installment #3 - Bolts

It was raining today, so I spent a little time creating a blog that demonstrates some options to set up bolted anchors. NOTE - Internet research is no substitute for proper instruction. Be to take a class, read books, talk to other climbers, and get out and practice your anchors!

In an effort to help remember how to properly set anchors, many people use the acronym "SERENE".

SERENE

• S - Strong (or Solid) - The stronger the better
• E - Equalized - Anchors should be constructed so that each component of the anchor carries an equal amount of the load
• R - Redundant - Anchors should consist of multiple components in case one or more components fail
• E - Efficient - Anchors should be as simple and timely as possible without giving up any of the other SERENE qualities
• NE - No Extension - Anchors should be built so that if one or more of the components fail the remaining components won't be shock loaded 

I've included some typical scenarios below. 

1. Two Solid Bolts Evenly Spaced: This bolted setup is one of the simplest to build and is quite common at most crags. All you need is two equal length slings and 4 carabiners. At least 2 of them should be "lockers". At the very least, be sure there is at least one locker on the master point (the point where the rope goes through).

2 - Two Solid Bolts Slightly Offset: If the bolts are slightly off-set you can add an overhand knot or a figure 8 knot into the longer sling. This should equalize the anchor point so the weight is evenly distributed on both slings.

3 - Two Solid Bolts Slightly Offset: If the offset is only minor, you can add a couple wraps on the carabiner to the longer sling. Make the wraps on the locker if you have a choice.

4 - Two old bolts & 1 new bolt: This scenario tends to occur in back country settings where the bolts have to be hand drilled. Rather than pull the two old bolts and replace them, the bolt replacer has chosen to simply add a single new bolt. You could simply clip only 2 bolts (the new one and the best looking of the old ones) but it's better to add both old bolts into the system and having them equalized. This rigging uses a single length runner on the old bolts with an overhand knot in the middle of it. In order to be redundant on the old bolts, be sure to clip into both loops so if either old bolt pulls out, there will be no "Extension". This rigging uses 4 carabiners, 1 shoulder length sling and one double length sling. Pretty efficient and most climbers have at least one double and one shoulder length sling. Take your time adjusting the knots so that everything is equalized. This setup could be slightly better by extending the left leg of the blue sling so that more of the weight is taken up by the new bolt.

5 - Two old bolts and 1 new bolt: This is the same bolt arrangement as above but rigged with a 20' cordellete instead. Note that this rigging uses one less carabiner (but you have to remember to bring a cordellete). Weight the system with body weight then make any final adjustments before you use it. Some people worry about whether they should clip the bolts or the chain or chain links attached to the bolts. The answer is that it usually doesn't matter. Most of the metal hardware you run into at the crags is stronger than the rope or sling that's attached to it. If you have any doubts, then just clip the bolts. WARNING - Sometimes rap anchors are extended with "fixed slings". Never trust fixed slings for an anchor and always clip the bolts. Better yet, bring a knife and cut the old fixed slings off and replace them with chain. 

 

 6 - Two solid bolts, setback from the edge: Many times you need additional length to get over to the edge. The cordellete is your best option in this case. This is super quick and easy to untie. Use a Figure 8 or an overhand knot in the end with the master point. Add at least one locker and one non-locker (with gates opposed) to the master point.

7 - Two Solid Bolts, set way back from the edge: Sometimes you need even more length. With a 20' cordelette, you can untie it and extend it quite a distance. The bolt ends have Figure 8 Knots in them. Be sure to use 8 millimeter nylon cord since you have only 1 strand going to each bolt. At the master point, you'll need to tie a BHK, or Big Honkin' Knot. This is simply an overhand knot with one side folded back. Google "BHK Climbing Knot" and you'll find info. on how to tie these.

 

8 - Two Solid Bolts: This is the same bolt arrangement as before but the BHK has been moved up to bring the master point closer to the bolts. Using the BHK you can quickly move the master point further or closer to the anchor. The BHK results in an extra "leftover" loop. If it's short leave it hanging free. If it's long, you can bring it up and clip it to one of the carabiners on the bolts or tie it in an overhand knot on one of the other cords.