Pinnacles - Machete Direct

Kelly Farris & I took a wild ride directly up the east face of Machete Ridge. The climb has 6 pitches of climbing and goes free at 5.12b. We, of course, can't climb 12b but did manage to free some 5.10b sections. We aided through the harder stuff.

We left Paso at 7:00 am and were the first in the parking lot at 8:30 am. We took the obligatory "last seen alive shot" in the event Kelly knocked off a huge rock and managed to kill us both in the process.

Sorting gear in the parking lot like "real" big wall aid climbers.

Looking down from the top of the first pitch. The start is 5.10b then moves into 5.12 or something like that. We freed the 5.10b and aided through the 5.12.

Kelly coming up to the belay at the top of Pitch 1.

Kelly led the seriously run out (and lichen covered) 5.7 second pitch. The Middle Tower is in the background.

I got to lead the third, easy 5.2 traversing pitch. Looking back at Kelly following the pitch. 

Since the 5.2 pitch wasn't really a pitch, Kelly let me lead the next pitch. It started out with a few 5.10b moves which I quickly dispatched with a combo of aid & free moves.

 I gave the camera to Kelly for this pitch. He takes pics of me, himself, lichen, his fingers, etc.

Me at the top of Pitch 4 belaying Kelly up.

More self portraits of Kelly 

Kelly takes the camera with him as he leads up Pitch 5 (5.6/A1). Note picture of his finger.

 

Taking a snack break.

Great views of the Balconies across the way. 

Kelly headed up Pitch 5. 5 (5.6/A1). This was one of the more interesting pitches with free moves, aid moves, and tricky trad placements.

End of the aid and ready to go free. And away he goes...

 More Balconies views.

Me at the top of the 6th pitch. This pitch was all free with a combo of trad placements and bolts. It was rated 5.8 in the book but I couldn't find a 5.8 move on the pitch. Maybe but felt more like 5.6. 

Looking down at Kelly following the wide corner on Pitch 6. A couple of pigeons flew out of the crack and startled me while I was leading. Fortunately, I was hanging on pretty tight.  The pitch looks like a really cool lieback but it's really a 5.4 face climb. Still a fun pitch though.

 

 Almost there!

On top of the final pitch of Machete Direct. 

Not a bad day for a couple "old guys". We have a combined age of over 100!

Instead of the standard descent, I decide that we should reverse the Machete Ridge Traverse and rap down the Hideout. This adds 3 more pitches of 5.2.  This is Pitch 1 of the Reverse Traverse.

Pitch 3 working our way back under the "headwall".  Pitch 2 (not shown) was the "Rappel Bypass" variation. Actually a pretty decent pitch.

 

 We get back to the base to collect our packs and discover a surprise waiting for us. As you can see it's getting dark. 

 

About 50' up one of my draws is hanging from the the first pitch. I led it so Kelly left the draw. Since it's my draw, I tell Kelly to just give me ten bucks so we can go home. He has other ideas in mind.

Yep, there it is. 

Kelly leads back up using a stick clip to clip bolts every 10' to 15'. 

He gets my draw back and we walk out under a nearly full moon. 

 It's fully dark by the time we reach the car. First in and last out. Another great adventure at Pinnacles.

Pinnacles Machete Ridge Linkup

Frank & I had such a good time climbing in Yosemite last spring that we decided to head back in October. I was worried, because the week before we were to go the temps went up to 110 degrees in SLO. I figured it would be too hot! Little did I know, we would get rained out and not be able to climb a single pitch! In order to salvage something we headed back home and did a day trip at the Pinnacles. I've wanted to link Bulleye, Derringer, & Old Original for a long time. It's easy (5.5), but I figured it would be fun. The linkup combines up to 17 "pitches" of adventure.

The climb starts on the southwest face of Machete Ridge, climbs 4 pitches of 5.5 then traverses the entire length of the top of Machete Ridge. The descent involves several 4th Class pitches as well.

The first 4 pitches involve 5.1 to 5.5 climbing up several waterchutes. Most of the climbing is easy and fun. Still a few loose holds in spot. From the photo you can tell there's a bit of "kitty litter" as well. This is Frank approaching the first belay.

 

Same spot, just zoomed out a bit.

Looking up at the "tasty" P2 Waterchute.

Frank arrives at the P2 belay. As you can tell, he's totally "gripped".

Flyin' high on the ridge top. The summit of Machete was so heavily "raked" by high winds (3 to 5mph) that we were nearly blown off..

Frank coming up to the P5 belay and providing "constructive criticism" on my protection skills. I slung a horn then hung some cams off it so the sling wouldn't blow off in the high winds. I believe the exact words were, "This is bullsh**!".

Frank jumps on the sharp end to take on P6. You make an exposed move out right, then work your way under the "headwall". Here's frank smacking his head into the wall. I guess that's why they call it a "headwall". Really awesome exposure here.

A look back at the headwall from the middle of P6.

Looking down at Frank at the "Optional Belay" at the end of P6.

A closer look at Frank at the belay. Turns out he was passed out from boredom since I stopped to take so many pics. Next time, I'll make sure I use the GriGri.

Coming up to the correct belay on P6. It ends at a Manzanita in a cool little meadow.

 

Really awesome exposure as you work your way (3rd Class) across the top of the ridge toward the belay on P7. The right side drops several hundred feet. The left side drops about 700'. 

Cool views of the Balconies.

I had to get in at least one of the pics! If you look carefully, you'll see Frank in the background at the P7 belay.

P7 belay right before the 1st of 2 raps.

 

Looking up at Frank doing the 2nd rap of P8.

 

Frank at base of P9. P9 requires you to do a climb up (5.1) then a climb down (5.1) to the base of the South Tower (not visible in the pic). 

Me again! Great pic. Great subject. Great photo. What can I say?

The only other climber I saw all day was this guy on Lava Falls (5.9R).

Another cool pic of the Balconies showing Lava Falls and Shake and Bake (5.10aR). Maybe something to do on another trip. Shake and Bake is right of Lava Falls and is the fat left waterstreak where you see double waterstreaks.

The descent requires you to make several 3rd & 4th Class scrambles. Here's Frank finishing the "Scary 4th Class Traverse" on P12. It really is scary. I'm not kidding!

 

Look at these two idiots we found in the cave on the way back. Oh wait, that's us! Be sure to bring a headlamp. You really do need it going back through the cave. 

A few more cool pics to get you going. It began to rain on the way out (1st pic). The last 4 pics are from different trips to the High Peaks.