Saturday, September 25, 2010

Working the Aid Route - UPDATE

We've been busy finishing the bolting/re-bolting work on the Diving Board Aid Route at the True Summit on Bishop Peak. Note - the new working name is "Fogcatcher". Working from the bottom up, these pics show a few of the aid moves necessary to climb the middle section of the route. 
The first pic below is the first move after you make it past the lower overhang. From beneath the overhang to the first bolt it's a tricky long reach, unless you're comfortable standing in the top step of your aiders. You can get some assistance by throwing in a hook move on a flake left of the bolt.When you make this move, you'll have a solid (new) bolt below you in case the hook blows.

Close up of the hook placement.

Once you pull the hook move, you'll reach up and slip a keyhole hanger over a 3/8" buttonhead contraction bolt. It was a bit tight to get a 'biner under it, so I slipped my hook in there.

Close up of the buttonhead with the keyhole hanger. I left the hanger in place as "fixed gear" but it's easily removed so don't expect it to be there for you. Bring your own keyhole hanger or slip a wired nut over the top of the buttonhead. 

The next move gets you to a bolt with the hanger smashed flat. Yes, I purposely smashed the hanger flat to make things more interesting. You can hook it or bring a short piece of webbing to replace the webbing that may have been left there. Probably easiest to hook it but you can decide when you get there. I've even seen people girth hitch a wired nut through a hanger like this (not an approved method from the manufacture!)

Once you leave the smashed hanger you'll need to search carefully for a 3/8" hole drilled about 4' above the smashed hanger. This hole takes a solid hook. From the hook move, you'll need to top step in your aiders to reach up and back to clip the first bolt on the upper overhang. Check out the upward angle from my Fifi Hook. Fortunately, the next bolt is a solid, new 1/2" , Stainless Steel, Rawl Bolt. Best bolt around.

The upper portion of the aid route (under the "Diving Board") should be finished in the next couple weeks. Here's a pic of the first couple bolts and one of the old, existing bolts. We did pull a 1/4" buttonhead (with Leeper) and replaced it with the 3/8" bolt. There was an old hole where the 1/2" bolt was placed. I wouldn't want to be the one that was hanging from an old bolt when it pulled out! 

More to come!


  1. I can't wait to climb it that looks sick

  2. It's so "sick" it should be hospitalized! Looking forward to climbing it with you.


  3. You could try whacking them in with a big hammer but I suspect the expanding bit is well and truly set now. Rawl bolts