Friday, October 1, 2010

Working the Aid Route - UPDATE #2

Now re-named from "Fog Catcher" to "Vertigo". Kelly went with me yesterday to help with the upper section and had a bad case of Vertigo on the way up the trail. Hence, the new name. Everyone seems to like the name so far.

Since Kelly was laid up with Vertigo, I ended up heading up to the summit by myself to place a few more bolts. I placed the top bolt at the lip by leaning over the edge of the Diving Board and drilling back. I was tied in to the bolts on top but it was still exciting. I had visions of pitching head first over the Diving Board and being suspended in space with a drill still spinning by my head. Fortunately, I made it through just fine. Mark previously placed the first 2 lead bolts on the upper overhang. Yesterday I added two more. Some pics below.

Overview showing the 3 summits. The Aid Route is on the middle summit or "True Summit".

Closer view of the Diving Board.

JK re-placing bolt #2 on the lower overhang. The lower overhang was previously bolted up to the lip.

Once you leave the lower overhang you move out on the less steep face. For shorter climbers, you may need to hook a flake in order to reach up and grab the next bolt.

 Close up of the flake move. Looks "bomber" to me!

The next move is onto a hangerless 3/8" buttonhead. I slipped a Theron Moses Keyhole Hanger over the buttonhead. You may need to bring your own in case someone strips it. A wired nut would work too.

Since I had the hook on me, I slipped the hook in instead of using a 'biner. A 'biner would have been much more secure.

The next move is to a hanger smashed flat. Bring your own hero loops in case the webbing is old or missing. You won't be able to get a 'biner under the hanger. I've heard about a guy that girth hitched one of these with a wired nut. Whatever works!

The next move requires you to place a hook in a pre-drilled 3/8" hole. You'll need to hook the 
hole, then lean waaaay back to reach the first bolt on the upper overhang. As an option, you might want to place a 1" cam in the crack at the base of the overhang.

Here's the beta you'll need for the upper overhang. 

And finally, here's another pic of the full topo.


  1. John, this looks sweet! Huge thanks to you and all who helped with the refurbishment and hard work you put into making this route come alive again. I can't wait to get out there and do the second half now! - Aaron

  2. that was alot of fun but will we ever climb it again?