Monday, April 11, 2011

A Full Day of Customized Instruction

I received an e-mail from Darrin on Saturday morning that he was interested in getting out for a full day of climbing. By Saturday night we worked out a tentative agenda and by Sunday morning we were out climbing. The biggest challenge was finding him a pair of size 12.5 shoes! Fortunately, I have a few friends with BIG feet and managed to get him a pair.

We met at Darrin at 8am at the top of Highland. After doing a bit of paperwork and a quick gear check, we were headed up to the crag by 8:30 am. We decided to head up to Garden Wall to try a few easy climbs in the sun. I set up a Top Rope and Darrin climbed Madison Square Garden (5.7-ish), Look Ma No Hands (5.6-ish), Woofs of a Wandering St. Bernard (5.8), and Doggie Style (5.9). Darrin had a "minor slip" on the 5.9 friction move (I have too!) but cruised up it in style. I'm thinking we better get him on some harder climbs! 

After a quick snack and water break, Darrin asked for a "short course" in anchor building. We plugged in a few cams on the ground and set up a 3 point trad anchor.

Darrin using a cordellete to tie the 3 cams together into a "SERENE" anchor (Solid, Equalized, Redundant, Equalized, No-Extension,& Efficient)

Practicing setting up a redundant anchor using a tree. Wrapped around 2X and tied into a Figure 8 knot so it's also SERENE.

After our mini-anchor class, we headed over to Cracked Wall and set up Mouse Maze (5.9). Bryan Carroll assisted with Top Roping. 

All chalked up with "white courage" and ready to rock!

Darrin easily cruising the opening 5.7 moves. 

Crossing over the ramp for Dirty Rat's Crack and getting ready for the first (5.8+) mantle move. 

Piece of cake. 

Cruising over the 5.9 roof move. 

After a quick lunch break, we headed up to "Hallucinogen Wall" above Cracked Wall. Darrin wanted to try some "mock leading" and learn how to rappel. 

Darrin "mock leading" (he's on top rope while also trailing a lead rope). Darrin easily cruised through the 5.7/5.8 opening moves of J-K Flashback.

The finish is a bit dirty but still fun.
Still smiling so it must be good!

After climbing J-K Flashback, we set Darrin up on for a rappel, protected by a top rope belay. That went so smooth that Darrin wanted to do some more! Instead of walking down (my original plan), we set up a 180' rap from the top of Knight Moves, past Mouse Maze all the way down to the base of Cracked Wall. Darrin's rappin' on the blue rope while being belayed on the white rope.

Everyone had a great time & we were back to the car by 4pm. 

If you're interested in taking a class or creating a similar adventures, check out Central Coast Climbing or send me an e-mail

Thanks for checking us out!


No comments:

Post a Comment